Almost at the end of Volume 1 of Modernist Cuisine…

History and Fundamentals

About the books. The smell. When I was a wee lad my parents bought the entire junior and full blown set of the Encyclopaedia Britannica (ya ha ha that was in the 70’s). This set was hhhhuuuugggeee and was three shelves of 2 inch thick books for the main set and a shelf of 1 inch thick books for the junior edition. But you know what made me think of that? When you open the Modernistic Cuisine books is the smell… I am not sure what that is, but I think it is the ink. Also the pages are not glued into the book but sewn in like the Britannica, quality.

OK, I am two weeks into owning these and have done 300 pages of Volume 1. When you look at the advertisements for these books there is lots of hype about the pictures, but let me tell you that they contain tons of text. My first impressions is that for most people this first volume would bore them to tears, not really what I wanted to say in my first review of this set of books, but as Annie Lennox said:

Would I lie to you?
Would I lie to you honey?
Now would I say something that wasn’t true?

The first part of Chapter 1, History was entertaining and then I skipped a bit about different chefs. The section on History of This Book was good reading, at least for me. The next section on the how the recipes were laid out was interesting. They attack recipes more like a chemistry lab experiment than the traditional heat your oven, ingredients, step by step, but I liked the layout.

Chapter 2 on Microbiology for Cooks and Chapter 3 on Food Safety were a bit hard going. I guess this was mainly for restaurateurs and also to convince you don’t need to cook pork into a hard dry grey lump of fibre anymore.

Chapter 4 on Food and Health was quite an eye opener. As stated in the book, this chapter is probably the most controversial. Wow consider….

MSG is not bad for you.

Fibre is fibre and not a cure for colon cancer.

Fat in food for the most part does not affect your Cholesterol, but in fact the reduction in fat has increased obesity due to the increase in sugar in food.

Statins do reduce LDL cholesterol, but does not protect you from heart disease

The Southern European Diet does nothing for your heart, they all die the same as we do. Recent studies show they misdiagnosed the cause of death.

I studied engineering at Uni, so I am a geek and an engineer and a chef and I guess schizophrenic! Some of this stuff in Volume 1 gave me a refresher to stuff I “had” to learn in Uni. But on the flip side the high level and also low level at the same time coverage of “Heat in Motion” covering conduction, convection, radiation and then condensation was really good. I always thought that steam cooked the food but it is the change from steam to water again releasing the latent heat of vaporization that really cooks the food. The amount of energy to change water to different states is massive! On the opposite page was a discussion of the Fourier transform formula of energy (missed that bit out).

I am now reading the section on why Water is Strange and is very interesting considering most all the food we eat is water with some other bits thrown in.

All in all there are some really, really good bits so far which has made the purchase worth while.

More boredom later, if you can stand it VBG.

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One of the cool things about Sous Vide is…

that you can cook meat from frozen. I have not read the scientific bits yet about this (still in volume 1) but my guess is that what happens is that it thaws, comes to room temp and then cooks all in one motion. This afternoon I took a steak out of the freezer at 4:00

Frozen Costco Sirloin

I bagged it in my Vacuum Sealer with some unsalted butter and sea salt and pepper, still totally frozen. I then stoked up the Sous Vide with hot water from the tap and put the steak in for a good long hot relaxing bath (no candles though).

Sous Vide

131 F is the best temperature for a rare steak so I went for it. At about 6:30 I put the steamer on and prepared the vegetables. Nice time of year in the UK, fresh asparagus and Jersey Royals.

Vegetables

Steam the spuds for 20 minutes and asparagus for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile lift the steak from the Sous Vide

Boil in a Bag Steak

and give it a good blast in a really hot frying pan for a minute a side

Finished Steak

Plate this up with

Yuuuummmm

Sauce Béarnaise for the beef, Hollandaise for the asparagus and butter and sea salt for the Royals. Not a drop of ketchup in site, lovin it.

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Sometimes…

You don’t have time to cook, or be honest you forgot to take something out of the freezer last night to eat today (more like it). You could turn to the store cupboard to look for something tasty or you could let Costco take you out to a fantastic meal for about £7. Costco do frozen Beef Wellingtons

Beef Wellington

which cook in 40 minutes from frozen.

Frozen Beef Wellington

So turn your oven up to 250 C, 475 F , GM 9 in other words crank it up to full!

This is a GREAT time in the UK because there are two really, really nice vegetables that go with Beef Wellington, that make this meal worth over £20 if you had it a restaurant (if you could find Beef Wellington on the menu). The two veggies are grass and new spuds, which are English Asparagus and Jersey Royal New Potatoes.

Jersey Royal New Potatoes

Grass steams in about 10 minutes depending on the thickness. My opinion is the thinner ones, about the size of your little finger, taste better and are very tender. The Royals steam in about 20 minutes so when your oven is up to temp put your water on for steaming.

Turn your oven down to 200C, 400 F , GM 6 and put the Wellingtons in. Set the timer for 15 minutes, and pour a glass of house white.

House White

When the timer pings you out of your chair, put the Royals on to steam, and reset the timer for 10 minutes. When the timer pings, put your grass on to steam reset alarm for 5 minutes and find a movie on Sky. When timer pings take the Wellington out of the oven and put it on the serving plate, and restart timer for 5 minutes.

When the timer pings for the final time the Wellingtons would been in the oven for 35 minutes and rested 5 minutes. The Royals would have been steamed for 20 minutes and grass for 10. Take the grass to the serving plate and dollop with Hollandaise sauce

Hollandaise Sauce

Put the Royals in a bowl with butter and sea salt and stir until the butter has melted.

Plate this feast up

Ahhh Dinner

And EAT, yuuuummmm. OK, so the box of 4 Beef Wellingtons is £20 but there are 4 in there so £5 each. This meal tastes fantastic, was cooked in 40 minutes. I swear this would cost you at least £20 at a restaurant, so take the £13 saving and go to the pub for a cold one.

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They should add a discount coupon with these books

They are so heavy, you need a Laptop Desk to read them.
Laptop Desk and book

Looks like I need a larger light box too!

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Finally it is here…

Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking

And here is the unboxing. I grabbed a quick to hand reference object so you could see the size of the package.
Package

And you know what they were right it was
Heavy

The book on the top was the waterproof recipe book, which does not have any pictures but is ring bound so you can open to the right page without breaking the spine. All the recipes were very clear and in a large font ( for us oldies). Here are some random recipe names from letting the book fall open:

Recipe Book

Page 77 – Steelhead Trout Confit with a Fennel Salad
Page 127 – Green Garlic and Pork Sausage
Page 229 – Edible Films, next page spiced Honey Glass
Page 307 – Eggless Citrus Curd

Hmmmm.

A lot of packaging (all cardboard and ready for recycling) later we are almost to the other books.

Inside Box

So here are the rest of the books which were a bit of lifting to get out of the box.

Books

But wait a minute you don’t realize how big these babies are… I will be right back as I create another reference for you to judge them by (glug). OK ready with the reference:

Books with reference point

And here they are 1-5

Books

Books

Books

Books

Books

Calling in sick tomorrow… ok maybe not.

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Honey Mustard Slaw…

made my son go yuuuummmm the other day. If you can get a teenager to eat raw cabbage and carrots then it must be a good thing. I like Savoy cabbage as the texture is better, something about the wrinkles (must be my age) and a fresh carrot.

Ingredients

Cut the bottom off of the cabbage and peal the leaves off from the bottom of the cabbage. To prep the cabbage we need to take out the bitter white bit in the middle of the leaf.

Prep Cabbage

Then fold the leaves over on themselves and stack like pages in a book. Then push down with your left hand on the board and cut as thin of slices as you can.

Cabbage Strips

Now for the carrot. Peel then set to it with a Julienne Shredder.

Carrot

You see those teeth, stay away from them they are lethal. Use a chopping board and keep well away. Put the cabbage and carrot in a bowl, add a pinch of sea salt and mix it up with a fork. I find a more even mix is achieved with dry ingredients first then add the sauce.

It’s saucin time. This where it all kind of falls apart as far as a recipe goes, cause it is to taste and where you live (no really it is). There is an optional extra in this recipe. In my book it is not optional but essential as it adds a sour to the sweet of the rest of the flavours. In England they have a sauce called Salad Cream.

 Salad Cream

Which is kind of like a thin mayo with extra vinegar. Normally I don’t like it straight from the bottle as it is a bit too strong, but cut with mayo it makes a really nice sauce.

So basically the recipe for sauce is Mayo (and Salad Cream), runny honey and a shot of French’s “American” mustard. Get this straight, if you put that napalm that is English mustard with this recipe it is really going to suck. We are after light delicate background flavours not stomp on your tongue madness!

For the single serving I am showing here it was:
1.5 tablespoon mayo
1.5 tablespoon salad cream
1 teaspoon mustard
1 tablespoon honey

Plate this sucker up with anything in the picnic hamper: chicken, sausages or burgers.
 Honey Mustard Slaw

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Beef and Broccoli…

need Black Bean Sauce! Broccoli is called the “Poor Man’s Asparagus” and I agree, if you treat it right. First you need to start with good ingredients so “British Tender Stem Broccoli” is what you need.
Tender Stem Broccoli

The the stems are tender, but to make them melt in your mouth and not have any crunchy stringy bits a little attention is required. Take a vegetable peeler and gently in a horizontal type fashion remove the skin from the stem.
Tender Stem Broccoli Peeled

When making Beef and Black Bean Sauce stir fry, I don’t like to treat the broccoli that I have worked so hard to prepare to a wok. So I cheat and steam it on the side and add it at the end. This way the colour and flavour and texture are perfect. So layer the broccoli in your steamer and put the water on to boil.
Tender Stem Broccoli Ready to Steam

Now prepare the other vegetables. Chop about 3-4 shallots and a red pepper into strips. Take about 4-5 button mushrooms and quarter them.
Prep other vegetables

Now get yourself a really nice piece of sirloin steak. What is that you say, sirloin in a stir fry, you must be crazy (or incredibly well off). This steak will see a maximum of 4 minutes in the wok, so it will be a lovely medium rare and soft and melt in your mouth. Prep the steak and remove any fat and gristle because it will not be in the pan long enough to make it anything but nasty. Then cut it into slices of about ¼ inch thick. It should look something like this.
Prep the Steak

We are done cutting, but unfortunately not done preparing to cook. I like Sharwood’s Black Bean Sauce
Sharwood's Black Bean Sauce

I said, I like the sauce, and not all the bits in it. I am here to taste steak and broccoli and not other bits. The sauce just pulls it all together, but the black beans are really bitter. So we need put it through a sieve.
Pass Sharwood's Black Bean Sauce through a sieve

It is kind of like making stock, you put some bits into flavour the sauce and then strain them out
What is left of Sharwood's Black Bean Sauce passed through a sieve

to leave the stock at the end.
ahhh the good stuff

Almost ready to cook, so put a couple of tablespoons of olive oil into a wok. And get out your cheat’s garlic an ginger
Easy life

Put a teaspoon of each into the oil.
Ginger and Garlic to flavour the oil

If the water is boiling the set your timer to 10 minutes. Put your broccoli on the steam and start to heat the oil in the wok. We want the oil just bubbling to heat and brown the garlic and ginger and flavour the oil but not burn the spices. Garlic can turn very bitter if cooked too hard, so easy does it for now. Once the garlic starts to turn a light brown colour, add the shallots, peppers and mushrooms. Turn the heat up to about ½ way so you hear a little sizzle going on. If it starts to dry out here then add some more oil. Stir constantly until the peppers are at a soft crunch and the shallots have started to turn translucent.

Now crank up the heat to about 80% and add the steak. Stir constantly until all of the meat is brown on the outside, about 4 minutes. Then add the sieved sauce and continue to stir.

At this point I have not mentioned rice. Another of my nemesis, as I cannot boil water with grains and make it good. So I have transitioned the new millennium and do microwave bag rice… sorry but it is better than I can do so I like it more.

Here it is plated up.
Beef and Black Bean Sauce Plated Up

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Here is one for the veggies…

One of my good friends who is a vegetarian and always very PC said that my site was nice but not really suited for vegetarians, so this is for Lynn. We need to celebrate asparagus season in the UK and I am on my second bunch from my favourite place to go on a lazy Sunday afternoon , or any other time that I get a chance Sheeplands farm shop. After my review of Weber’s Time to Grill: Easy or Adventurous, It’s Your Call. My comment on the vegetarian section was:

“The first really nice recipe that hits me is Asparagus and Potato Napoleons with Tarragon Vinaigrette which is a short stack of potato pancake, asparagus, goat’s cheese and repeat… nice.”

Which was not 100% true as they are not potato pancakes but slices of potato which are par boiled then grilled (better already). I cooked this tonight. The farm shop provided some of the bits for the meal, which for me anyway, are not really considered store cupboard. First there was goat’s cheese. Jon Thorners does some really nice food (pies, sorry veggie’s) and other things like this Nannie Goats Olive Grove Cheese with olives, tomato pieces and basil (yum). They also had capers and some locally produced Dijon Mustard.
Bits
And Hare Hatch garden shop provided me with some fresh French Tarragon Plants to supplement the recipe.

Potatoes were sliced and par boiled then put into a bag with the asparagus (after dead ending) and some olive oil. Then onto the grill for 4 minutes a side.
Cook

Now it is layered up and sprinkled with capers and goats cheese and then surrounded by vinaigrette.
Plated

And this is what it looks like when it is done…
Done
It was very nice, and as you can see I did not leave a lot. Next time a little less lemon juice and some maybe some mayo to thicken the sauce.

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OK it is official I am stupid…

Twice!!! Not only did I purchase the most expensive set of cookbooks ever by buying Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking (stupid #1). I then was too eager / greedy to wait for it in the UK so I purchased it at Amazon.com in the USA and had it shipped to unknown location, deep in the southern states of America (my mom’s house). Where I thought she could pop it on a plane and forward it on to me the UK (stupid #2).

Here are the physical characteristics of this order:
Product Dimensions: 18.4 x 15.4 x 14.6 inches
Shipping Weight: 46.1 pounds

Basically it is a block of wood that is a foot and half square and weighs almost 50lbs. Sorry Mom…

I am now trying to figure out how to get this block of wood from my mom’s to the UK, looks like it will take another couple of weeks until I can start reading – let alone reviewing this in any way.

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Some time to myself and I have fulfilled…

a promise to review of Weber’s Time to Grill: Easy or Adventurous, It’s Your Call
time to grill
I have been following Jamie’s recipes in his Recipe of the Week which you can sign up for at Weber Life.

I finally got a chance to sit in the sun and have a good read of all the recipes in this book this afternoon. My overall opinion is that it is well written and covers not only BBQ but cooking in general, and good value for money. The reason I say it is more than a BBQ cookbook is that the first section, on Grilling Basics, is 30 pages of information that any good cook should know. For example, I did not know how to butterfly / spatchcock a chicken which is covered well in text and pictures. Jamie has broken each recipe into a quick method on the left facing page of the book and a more adventurous on the right facing page. In my opinion skip the shrink wrapped “BBQ” food in the cold section of supermarket and buy this book to learn how to use raw ingredients to create quick or adventurous creations for the BBQ which will taste twice as good.

The book is broken down into sections:
Grilling Basics
Appetizers
Red Meat
Pork
Poultry
Seafood
Eggs
Vegetables
Deserts

So I will follow the same layout in my review.

Grilling Basics
This is a really good overall summary of the equipment and techniques you should have to prepare food for the BBQ, which can be the toughest bit for most people. The section on rubs, marinades and sauces is a more general set of recipes. Throughout the book these are used but also other sauces and marinades are introduced.

Appetizers
I found these recipes a bit too fiddly for me, but it was not a large section either as it was only 20 pages of the 300 page book.

Red Meat
Since Jamie is American the cuts of meat may not be the same that you are used to, for example Tri-Tip. Also this section covers several recipes which use minced beef, but BBQ meat loaf…hmmm not quite sure about that one. This section also includes lamb and one of the recipes I am going to try is Lamb and Chorizo Burgers with Jack Cheese and Poblano Chiles served in pita bread. I never thought of cooking kofta on the BBQ but it makes sense as I grill it indoors. When covering steaks Jamie has many sauces included in the cooking instructions. One sauce which caught my eye is where he discussed making Béarnaise sauce and “that is usually strikes fear into the minds of amateur cooks” followed by a discussion of using raw eggs in sauces can cause salmonella. He does spark my attention every once in a while with “I never thought of that on the BBQ”, for example Nachos. I am definitely going to try Churrasco Mixed Grill which has pork, chicken and chorizo, as I wanted to eat the picture right out of the page. I think the American influence of the book has also has brought with it the Tex-Mex side of cooking. For example Queso Fundido which is a chunky Mexican cheese fondue, but I am not sure where I will find at cotija cheese. There are lots of pork chop recipes again with different sauces: Whiskey-Mustard Pork Chops, Buttermilk-Brined Pork Chops, and Moroccan-Spiced Pork Chops, Pork Chops stuffed with apricots and raisins and Miso-Ginger Pork Chops. He has a couple of nice recipes for pulled pork one quick if you are in a hurry and another if you have a nice afternoon and some cold ones in the fridge to spend 3-4 hours to cook the pork. The ribs section has a great tip on how to remove the membrane from the back of ribs using a table knife.

Poultry
This section starts with lots of recipes using chicken breasts. There is a new twist on beer can chicken which used lemon-lime soda, but this also has some tips on how to actually implement the can and liquid. This section also has several turkey recipes, but quite a few of them have a pre-cooking brining step.

Seafood
Prawns and scallops play a major part of this section. It has a really gorgeous paella recipe so I might actually use the speciality pan I bought about 5 years ago. There follows a plethora of salmon fillet recipes with many different sauces. Then something that makes you go wow, Salmon Sliders! Sliders to me are a Illinois thing when I was growing up in America, on Fridays we used to send someone off for 50-60 sliders for lunch. Tuna is next and using mainly steaks with sauces again, but there is a twist where Jamie does a cedar plank recipe. I have never charcoaled one side and then put the food on and finished it off, but I am going to try it. Note Jamie cooks his tuna rare, but if you are like me and only like beef that way give a few more minutes.

Eggs
Huh what is this all about, they will fall between the grates! Oh further reading means you will need a cast iron skillet to do most of these recipes. But a skillet may be worth the investment if you consider Jamie’s thought of a lazy sunny weekend morning’s brunch, and maybe a bucks fizz (I added that bit).

Vegetables
The first really nice recipe that hits me is Asparagus and Potato Napoleons with Tarragon Vinaigrette which is a short stack of potato pancake, asparagus, goat’s cheese and repeat… nice. Another wow hits here with Roasted Brussels Sprouts marinated in lemon olive oil. I want to try this for sure but don’t know where I am going to find champagne vinegar. What follows is lots of eggplant recipes so I kind of glazed over.

Deserts
I did not really look to closely at this section because, after all the work of prep and cook a proper BBQ someone else can do the pudding.

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